July 30, 2011
Cycling the last stage of our trip, both a happy and sad feeling, we are excited about seeing old friends and families again and the start of a new adventure, but we know we will miss the freedom of the bikes and our life outdoors.
We had a very relaxing time with my Mum, but it felt good to back on the bikes and the sunshine stayed with us!
A good view from the tent, the Chateau at Falaise.
The cobbled streets of Falaise.
Field after field of sunflowers.
Normandy is known for its wet weather, but on a sunny summers evening it is really idyllic.
The ferry home, and luckily a nice calm day!
England! Shame we didn’t bring the sunshine with us!
Russ and his Dad, who came to meet us and ride the last two days back to Bath with us and check we were on the correct side of the road!
We followed the sustrans cycle route for most of the way, which took us on some lovely back roads and cycle paths, however sometimes the signs would suddenly disappear which lead to bit of back tracking!
Not sure if this is the right way, but it’s very pretty!
Down to the ferry landing to get a little boat across the Humble, we just managed to get the three bikes on the tiny bright pink ferry that came across.
Even so close to home, we still rode through little villages and hamlets we never knew were here.
The back roads!!
Back in Somerset.
Home! Back at Russ’ parents house.
We have had such a great time and we can’t say a big enough thankyou to all the people who have made it such a good experience, all the hospitality and kindness we have been shown. Also the lovely company of the people we have ridden with. Hopefully this blog has shown something of a great journey, thanks to everyone who has followed us and shown interest in our travels.
July 9, 2011
Riding along the Loire has had all the best bits of cycle touring, perfect picnic spots, trails through the vineyards and beautiful chateaux. The weather has stayed sunny for us and it has felt like a really good end to the trip, a chance for us to enjoy the summer and get ready for going home, which is both a very exciting thought and also a little scary!
Wild flowers along the Loire.
Bicycle graffiti along the route, this is a very popular ride for cycle tourers and for day-trippers. With great roads, either quiet secondary or cycle paths, making very pleasant riding.
There is always a chance for some off-road as well….
With some great swimming spots!
The fairytale Chateau at Ussé.
Good when you going down, not so fun to ride up!
Waterlilys in the gardens at Chaumont.
Our only problem along the Loire, after over 10 000 miles this tyre had enough, and made an impressive bang when it burst! Luckily we weren’t flying down the hill!
A side trip from the Loire to La Vienne at Chinon.
We didn’t make to the vineyards of South America this time but we are definitley in wine-growing country here.
One more chateau picture! They are just too picturesque. Chaumont sur Loire.
Inside the Chateau at Chenonceux.
Lovely copper pots in the kitchen…
..and a selection of knives not needed by a vegetarian!
We are now taking a lovely few weeks off in the Cave (Lorely’s mum’s troglodyte home) in Luynes.
Helping out with a few summer time jobs.
Happy painting windows!
June 30, 2011
We have arrived in France, a cyclists dream with miles and miles of cycle paths, campsites everywhere, some with a discount for people arriving on bicycle, and you can’t beat the bread and cheese picnics. After a few rainy days in Spain, crossing the border we have had day after day of sunshine. So we have really enjoyed a good few weeks of very laid back cycling!
Cycling past field after field of sunflowers, even with a head wind it makes you smile.
Our last day in Spain, we arrived in the small town of Hondarribia to find ourselves in the middle of a medieval fair!
Everywhere was in full Medieval style.
Watching the surf in Biarritz.
Cycling the coastal bike route , you can ride the whole coast on trails, which is fantastic. However, we did find ourselves needing days on the roads as well due to the monotony of miles of pine trees!!
Rows and rows of pine trees and piles and piles of wood!
We have really enjoyed the long evenings, after so many months of early sunsets.
Dune du Pilat, near to Arcachon, the highest sand dune in Europe and good fun to run and slide down.
One of the many oyster huts at Arcachon, we stayed near here with a lovely family who stopped by us on the side of the road and invited us to stay for the night and for dinner. The whole trip it has been amazing the kindness people have shown towards us.
Waiting for the ferry over to Cap Ferret.
Some of the bike paths a little bit narrow!
We still enjoy the fresh fruit and veg at the markets and we were lucky to pass a lot of farmers markets in different towns.
Even when we left the cycle tracks the roads were quiet and lovely for riding.
Map reading but a good photo chance! The little villages and towns in France are lovely for cycling, passed beautiful old farmhouses and barns.
The Transporter bridge into Rochefort, built-in 1898 and now used by cyclists and walkers to cross the Charente river. It is a movable bridge with a gondola slung from a huge metal frame, fewer than two dozen have been made and now only twelve of these bridges are still in use.
The harbour entrance of La Rochelle.
La Rochelle, we were lucky to be here on the summer solstice which in France is celebrated with live music in the streets.
Birthday boy, 30 years young!
June 10, 2011
Since our last blog we have had a rather big twist in our trip. Back in Panama, most days I had been feeling not my normal self but put it down to long days riding in the heat, however this continued into Colombia. I eventually found out I was a couple of months pregnant! We rode to Bogota to try to get the necessary check ups. After much deliberation we decided we still wanted to cycle but Latin America was posing too many problems. So a cheapish flight to Madrid was our decision and to cycle home from there. We left Colombia a little sad but very excited about the future and hopefully one day will be back to finish the journey south.
Craving fresh fruit and veggies, we found an amazing vegetarian restaurant for our last few days in Bogota.
Puppet on a wire.
New Jeans and a new city, we are back in Europe!
The Palace in Madrid. Note the lovely blue sky which soon disappeared as we got back on the bikes.
Beautiful magnolia in the park.
As we headed out of Madrid and towards the mountains, the Colombian off road theme continued and we soon found ourselves back on gravel roads.
The scenery was totally different to what we had become used to, we road through rolling farmlands…
Lovely towns and tiny villages all with beautiful churches and houses.
It was funny to the see similar buildings and plazas that we were so used to seeing in all the colonial towns we had travelled through.
Cycling through the poppy fields, trying to out run the storm clouds!
The national park, Canon Del Rio Lobos.
Canon Del Rio Lobos.
We decided to take the mountain bike trail through the national park.
Concentration! Still finding rivers to cross but no worries of crocs in these ones!
Up through the beautiful Canyon.
A very wet day but a very lovely ride, through the mountains.
We thought the riding would be a little bit easier in spain, however with stong headwinds and some high mountain passes we were in for a shock, but the views have been great, lots of wild flowers and food we have been dreaming for months of eating!!
Our downhill descent into the Basque region.
Picture perfect villages.
Mutriku, back on the coast and heading towards France.
The cause of the detour! In Bogota we were lucky to stay with great warmshower host, Angelica and Claudio who helped us so much with the doctors. I was able to go for a scan and have all the necessary blood tests.
May 27, 2011
Back on the road and heading towards Bogota with the traffic not so bad we decided to take the regular route via Villa De Leyva. With lots of mountains and scenery and high altitude farm lands the ride into the capital was enjoyable even with a few wet days thrown in.
The steep streets of San Gil. We had a couple of days here wandering around town working our leg muscles on these hills.
Lots of road side treats for very sweet teeth but good cycling energy.
After some long hills we came across a random Swiss Cafe selling delicious Brocolli and cheese crepes, very much needed.
On the road to Villa De Leyva we cycled through a lovely canyon and with so much rain there were waterfalls pouring on either side of the road. However at 2500 meters high it was a little cold for swimming!
Cycling in the clouds and with the green fields we felt like we were on a day trip in the Brecon Beacons! Although it was wet it was really enjoyable cycling with very little traffic.
Looking for the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow.
Entering Villa De Leyva, a really lovely town in the mountains, we found it hard to leave here. We spent four days just wandering the little cobbled streets and eating great food. We camped in the garden of the hostel Renacer which had a good backpacker feeling.
Couldn’t resist buying some of the local spun wool.
The cobbled square of Villa De Leyva.
A little bit of bike maintenance and cleaning, luckily the sun was out!
Chiquinquira, a small town full of churches and plazas.
A new favourite second breakfast, we discovered that all the little bakerys do fried eggs with bread and a cup of Colombian coffee…ummm!
Not our favorite food option, but good for all those meat lovers.
Zipaquira, the main attraction here is the salt cathedral, an old salt mine transformed. Its a fasinating place to visit.
Walls of salt, we didn’t lick them though!
Salty tree of life.
Salt cathedral, Zipaquira.
Back out into the daylight, the main plaza Zipaquira.
Cycling into the capital.
La Candaleria, the historic old part of the city, full of cafes, restaurants and Museums.
It’s better by bike.
Botero’s Mona Lisa, he manages to make everything look fat. A great collection of his work in one of the many museums and galleries in the city.
Street art, Bogota
Colonial houses complete with colonial locks.
At first we were not sure about the city, it felt very big and dirty. However once we scratched the surface, walked the cobbled streets and found good veggie food, we discovered a great city that really grew on us.
May 12, 2011
We left the wetlands and headed for the foothills of the Andes, Siska, Michiel and Joost turned off onto a different route, so we said our goodbyes but hopefully will meet them again in a few weeks. There was no option to avoid the hills whichever way you went you would soon be going up! However it felt nice to be climbing higher and the temperature drop making camping much more pleasant.
The first hills, everything was so green it was as if everything was covered in a layer of moss. There as been a lot of rainfall in this area aswell.
Although the views were good, the ride was made hard by the constant stream of trucks. Due to landslides a lot of the other roads in the area had been closed so all the traffic was channeled into one road. A policeman told us where there would normally be a hundred trucks there was now three hundred.
After the town of Bucaramanga, the thought of the traffic and with encouragement from Cass we decided to take the back roads to San Gil.
Our first stop was the little town of Giron, a picture perfect town with all whitewashed buildings, and a great bakery for morning snacks.
The beginning was a mixture of paved and gravel roads but the lack of traffic was lovely.
Tobacco leaves drying by the side of the road. We cycled passed orange, pineapple and tobacco farms on our way through the valley.
Soon the fate of our day came into view as the road switchbacks up the other side of the valley.
A well parked car provided a shady rest spot on a 40c day.
Rest stop over, on up the hill!
As we climbed higher the views were really spectacular.
We often see road side graves but this is the most impressive one so far.
The town of Zapatoca, we had planned to stay here, however with our long breaks to stay out of the sun we had to camp 10km before the town but it was a good stop in the morning for breakfast. We were a great fascination for the town and one man even weighed our bikes in his shop to see how much we carried, he then weighed all of us!! It was interesting to find out how much we carry and were all around the 46kg.
We had a long gravel descent and soon came across the idyllic village of La Fuente. we stopped for drinks but soon pushed on as we knew we had more hill climbing in the heat to do.
Another big hill and the next day we arrived in the even more picture perfect town of Barichara.
Beautiful painted houses and cobbled streets.
In the bakery we met Carlos, a local artist and mountain biker, he had heard we were coming from the guys in the bike shop in Bucaramanga and invited us to stay. His house was a beautiful a 12 year project of his. He was not staying as he had another house in a neighbouring town, but gave us the keys and said to make ourselves at home, amazing hospitality.
We have loads of photos of little doors and windows, each one seemed to have its own charm. I liked this plan and simple one!
It was a longer tougher rider this way, but really worth it for the great views, good camping spots and amazing towns and villages.
For more pictures and a really good blog check out Cass’ http://www.whileoutriding.com
May 6, 2011
We left Cartagena, which was a bit of a bottleneck for cyclists. While we were there we met 6 other cyclists which was really great, swapping stories and comparing routes, we headed out of Cartagena with two Dutch cyclists, Joost and Michiel and a Belgium cyclist Siska. The other cyclists had already left but we planned to met them again in a few days. It was lovely to be back on the bikes after a good rest.
Leaving Cartagena was busy with traffic, but we were heading to an old colonial town called Mompos and soon were able to turn off the highway into the countryside.
Hiding from the sun under a truck, on the ferry across to Mompos.
We had heard there had been a lot of flooding in this area, which we could see as soon as we got off the ferry, but it was lovely to ride alongside.
Brick ovens along the way.
Our first sights of the flood damage on the way to Mompos.
Santa Barbara church, Mompos. We had really enjoyed wandering around Cartagena but Mompos was even better, with its very hot, sleepy streets and beautiful buildings.
It was so peaceful wandering around, some of the 18th century buildings are still used for the same purpose, even the rundown ones still looked lovely.
Beautiful old doors and locks.
La Casa Amarilla, our guest house, which was so lovely we could have stayed for weeks. We were again 8 cyclists here, as we met up with Cass from England and Arnold and Ann Claire from Belgium.
The graveyard at Mompos, with walls of graves.
Lightning from the roof of the guest house.
Getting to Mompos had been straight forward and the floods had not effected us much, leaving was a different story. It was raining when we left so we were soon riding in the mud.
At least someone was enjoying it.
The sun was back out but the ride soon turned into an adventure, with roads flooded or washed away..
Luckily everything is possible here and we all piled on to a little boat, this was the first boat of many. It was amazing 6 cyclists in one little canoe.
Taking the back roads.
Some of the boats were really small and very wobbly.
Cass and Joost smiling while trying not to fall in.
It was a long day with all the river crossings, but a lovely evening as we arrived into the town of El Banco.
Something other than floods, little chicks for sale.
El Banco, in the morning we really saw how flooded the town was.
It was crazy how much water there was here, the only way out of town, other than the way we had come in was by boat, which took us 20km or so to where the road was clear again.
It was a great adventure and well worth it to see Mompos and the area around, it was also amazing to see people just get on with life even with such bad floods, they have had flooding here since November, but everyone stills carries on. We are now heading up into the mountains so hopefully not so many river crossing.
April 26, 2011
We arrived safely in Cartagena, Columbia which is lovely and we have had a good time exploring the town, and getting a few jobs done, like finding funny sized bolts which had gone missing after the flight,and even managing to get a needed yellow fever injection! Our Spanish has hardly improved but with lots of sign language we always seem to get by! So here are a few pictures from our time off the bikes in Panama city and Cartagena.
The Panama canal, its pretty impressive watching the huge boats coming in and the trains that help keep them in position, a bit more complicated than the Kennet and Avon!
The lock house,with one of the little trains!
Looking out over the new town.
The infamous Coca Cola cafe which is said to have had the name before Coca Cola! Weather this is true or not, it’s a great place to watch the locals and good coffee.
Panama city graffiti.
Putting the bikes back together at the airport, it was a bit of a pain boxing the bikes up but we were able to ride away from the airport with just one bolt missing!
Colourful streets of Cartagena.
And colourful fruit sellers in the park.
Watching the football in the local shop.
Our new favorite snack, Arepa, a corn cake stuffed with cheese and butter on top.
Cartagena is full of scultures this is one by Fernando Botero, also a famous painter.
More art work around the old town.
Everything is colourful here,even a bookstall.
Every house is a different colour and as you move away from the tourist areas the paint is peeling away a bit more but somehow there is more charm here.
More food delights!
Cartagena, we have had a great time here,and although it looks like we have some very wet cycling days coming up, we are looking forward to being back on the bikes tomorrow.
Nine months on the road, over 8000 miles and we have arrived in Panama city. The ride through Panama didn´t look like it was going to be too hard but with headwinds, heat and hills, it was quite tough! However we had so much encouragement from the passing traffic, it really helped us. We rode into the city on a sunday which worked out well as there was hardly any traffic and we were able to ride over Puente de las Americas, the bridge over the entrance to the canal. We had read that a lot of cyclists are stopped and escorted over so it was a great way to enter the city. With our ride through North America and Central America complete we are looking forward to new adventures in South America.
Panama city, a very happy Lorely!
Arriving in Jaco, Costa Rica we found it hard to find a place to stay, when a lady invited us to camp in her garden, these flowers were right by the tent.
Cycling along the coast in Costa Rica we had to dodge these crabs on their suicide missions across the highway!
We rode past huge palm tree plantations and every so often there were these picture perfect villages, set around a football pitch!
“Her passport shows a face from another time and place”. We often have lyrics and songs going in our heads as we cycle along, and we are usually singing about the towns and countries we pass through.
Quepos, Costa Rica. We really enjoyed Costa Rica, although it is a lot more developed than the other Central American countries. You get to see so much wildlife, just cycling along we were able to see lots of birds including Scarlett Macaws and on our last day Toucans, we saw electric green Lizards and Iguanas as big as small dogs. Everything had so much colour.
Husbands for rent?
Panama, new country, new beers to try!
Cycling into the financial district of Panama city.
Casco Viejo, the old city of Panama, this is where we are staying, there is so much character here and it is a fun place to wander around.
You can watch her Waltz……..
The view from our hotel rooftop, there is such a contrast between the two sides of the city.
Sunrise over Panama, we are going to spend a few more days here exploring the city and having a look at the locks of the canal. Then we will begin our journey of South America. Although Panama and Columbia are connected by land there is no way through the Darien gap by road. So a flight to Cartagena on Friday and we will begin our next stage.
April 6, 2011
We are back on the road again after a lovely time relaxing on the beach with Hugh and Steph, and it was definitely needed after our adventure down the Nicoya peninsula. We now have just a few more days cycling down the coast before we cross into Panama.
The beach at Samara, we had a good time here, our campsite was right on the beach, so each day started with an early morning swim….
..and an attempted surf by Rusty.
A few morning bench presses on the jungle gym!
Beach front accommodation.
We decided to take a little adventure and cycle the coast road. We had been warned of gravel and river crossings. This was the start of a long day.
The first of a few river crossings. It was quite refreshing in the heat, then cycling with soggy shoes!
“How many more hills?”
This was a great bit of the ride, the end of the hills, we just had to wait for low tide!
Coyote beach, Nicoya.
It was a tough ride down the coast, but the rewards were great, beaches to ourselves!
San Miguel beach, Nicoya.
Lucky this was a dead one!
Cool swimming waterfalls at Montezuma.
Hermit crabs at work.
Mondy and the Cat, Casa Zen.
Lorely’s brother Hugh and his wife Steph safely arrived bringing all the bike supplies that were needed.
Golden sunset over Santa Teresa.
On the way to Jaco, luckily we saw these crocs after our river crossings!