November 9, 2013
After a lovely break from big cities we caught the bus back to Meknes, which for a big city has a really relaxed and friendly atmosphere. Normally we find we walk miles to avoid the hassle of arguing with taxi drivers! Meknes, however instantly feels welcoming as the taxi drivers are lovely and really helpful!! The souks are busy but hassle free so once again we were wandering though mountains of spices and sweets and into the maze!
The smell of all the spices is amazing and much more pleasant then the meat sections of the market!
During our trip was the build up to Eid al-Adha, the festival of sacrifice. Families go to the markets to choose and buy a sheep, this caused much entertainment for Mia seeing sheep in cars, on buses and in wheelbarrows!
Enough sightseeing, time for some Peppa pig on daddy’s i-pod!!
Our next stop, the capital Rabat. Showing ted the views from the train. An easy 3 1\2 hour journey right into the centre of town.
The Kasbah des Qudaias, the site of the original ribat and citadel of the Almohad, Merenid and Andalucian towns, it has a strange feeling of being in a village inside a capital city.
Rabat. More blue walls…
And cobbled streets!
Nice and shady in the Kasbah des Qudaias.
Morocco is all colour and patterns everywhere you look. On doors..
…on drinking fountains….
..on cloth covering bread…
..and the beautiful patterns in Arabic script.
Hassan Mosque, Rabat. The Mosque was started in 1195 but never completed, the huge minaret can been seen in nearly every view in the city. Had it been comlpeted it would have been the second largest mosque of its time.
The Mohammed V Mausoleum.
After the narrow streets and covered markets of the imperial cities, Rabat felt open and spacious with its big wide avenues. We had only planned to spend one night, just to break up the 8 hour train ride to Marrakech, but we really enjoyed the city with its fantastic cafes and hassle free streets, so we spent an extra day and night and could have easily stayed longer!
Potions of all kinds in a health shop.
The spice grinder!
Mint and other wonderful herbs and flowers.
As vegetarians the food in Moroccan can be quite repetitive, lots of veg tagine or veg and cous cous. But with lovely fresh fruit and delicious almond biscuits we didn’t have to resort to snails!!
Waiting for the train, Sunday was not the best day to travel with fewer trains they were really busy, but after half an hour we got a seat. A hot five hours to Marrakech but with the help of other passengers Mia was kept amused and entertained!
Marrakech here we come!
Marrakech, is an overload of the senses, sights smells and sounds. We found a room and after a long day time for some food. Waiting for our supper at one of the many stalls that fill the Djemaa el Fna in the evening.
Another maze of a Medina, Marrakech was much busier with tourists than the other cities and as a result there was a bit more hassle, but Mia was a good distraction.
Unfortunately not many people took any notice of these signs and where we had become used to wandering in traffic free zones we were now having to jump out of the way of scooters. With Mia that made it not so enjoyable.
Escaping the medina, the beautiful and peaceful Majorelle Garden, created in the 1920s and 1930s by the French painter Jacques Marjorelle and later owned by the designer Yves Saint Laurent.
Moroccan colours. Posing in the gardens!
View of the city from El Badi the ruined palace of Ahmed el Mansour.
Dancing with her shadow!
Stocks nesting on the roof of El Badi Palace.
Riding into the square, a princess in her carriage!! Definitley a high light of the holiday for Mia.
Sitting in precious shade in the heat of the day!
The Djemaa el Fna. This square was made a Unesco site in order to protect the tradition of a need for a place for people to gather and socialise, a cultural space, for storytellers, musicians, snake charmers and performers to express themselves. It really is a great place to be as the sun sets, the whole square comes alive.
People watching in the Square.
Listening to the call for prayer from the Koutoubia Minaret, the oldest of the three great Almohad towers, (the others The Hassan Tower in Rabat and the Giralda in Seville) completed around 1150AD.
We have only explored a tiny bit of this great country, A really fun place to travel with a toddler, easy to get around and very friendly and welcoming people.
October 25, 2013
After a lovely breakfast of honey pancakes and mint tea, we wandered down to the bus station of Chefchaouen, knowing there was a CTM bus leaving at 1pm we got there early to buy a ticket, but as we arrived a rickety old bus was just leaving with the shouts of “Fez Fez Fez” so we hopped on and payed less than £2 for a four and a half hour journey. It turned out to be more like five and a half hours with the rickety old bus breaking down before we reached Fez but luckily with some space on a passing bus we reached Fez in daylight, which suddenly appeared after miles of dry sunburnt fields and tiny villages of mudbrick houses.
Bab Boujeloud, Fez. The old Medina of Fes el Bali is walled by impressive ramparts and then these beautiful gated entrances, which lead to a town still lost in some distant time.
The only traffic beyond the walls is horses, donkeys and pushcarts.
The old town of Fes el Bali.
We stayed in the heart of the Medina, so as soon as we walked out of the door we were straight into the market and into a barrage of sounds, beautiful colours and not so wonderful smells!!!
You can buy anything and everything in the market. Shops and stalls are full to the brim.
mountains of olives….
piles of dried fruit…..
beads in every colour….
and beautiful Fez pottery.
In the heart of the medina you find the Tanneries, which you smell before you see, although vegetable dyes have largely been replaced by chemicals , pigeon dung is still used to treat the leather.
Vats of dye and pigeon poo. Little has changed here since the sixteenth century, workers pass down their specific jobs from generation to generation, Hard work and with more chemicals being used high health risks.
Fassi leather from these tanneries is some of the finest leather in the world and founded the city’s wealth from the tenth to nineteenth century.
Racks of animal skins drying on the rooftops.
And maybe a donut or two!!
The donut man! It was fascinating to see how fast he made them, and people would buy 5 or six and they would just be threaded onto a piece of twine and taken away.
“Please can we take this donkey home?” Once again Mia was like a celebrity, showered in kisses, hugged by everyone from little old ladies to shopkeepers and children on their way home from school.
Life in the Medina
Still plenty of cats to chase!!
In the old town you find fancy shops of leather or carpets next to people selling a few bunches of mint, or cupfuls of grain.
The real maze of the old town, the covered souk, once inside you lose all sense of direction!
After a wrong turn, lost in the backstreets, a little disconcerting not having any idea where you are. But luckily there is always someone to point you in the right direction!
Relaxing after a busy morning shopping! In the lovely Riad Hala. Where we spent two very peaceful nights, as soon as you enter into the courtyard the noise of the streets is gone and it’s like an oasis of calm!
Playing Hide and Seek in the the Cafe Clock. Another good place when you need a break from the busy streets. With really delicious food on the menu!
On the rooftop of the guest house, with five mosques a stones throw away, the call to prayer was incredible. In Mia’s words “that man up tower singing”!
We really enjoyed Fes, it is busy but without any cars it is easy to walk around, and you really do feel like you are lost in another world.
The next stage of travel was by rail we were not sure what to expect but the train was great, it was simple to buy tickets for the next train and it was just a short ride, 40mins to Meknes. We were there by 10.30am so decided to head to a small town called Moulay Idriss. An important town for pilgrims, as the tomb of Morocco’s most revere saint lies here. A trip to Moulay Idriss is worth a fifth of the hajj to Mecca.
Much to Mia’s delight donkeys are the main transporter of everything from building materials to livestock, she was picked up for a free ride!
Moulay Idriss. Although the shrines here are restricted to Muslims only, and there is little for a tourist to visit, it was a really relaxing place to be and sit and people watch!
This gentleman was so lovely he wanted Mia to ride on his donkey so it would be a lifelong memory of Morocco for her.
From our rooftop. Until recently is was forbidden for non-Muslims to stay overnight in the town but as this ban has now been lifted we stayed in the very welcoming guest house La Colombe Blanche.
Relaxing on the roof after a hard day of donkey rides!
October 21, 2013
Time for our first adventure on the road with the Mighty Mia. Two and a half years has flown by and we have very itchy feet! We were undecided weather to take the bikes, and in the end we chose a taster of backpacking with a toddler!! With short and cheap easy jet flights we decided on flying into Gibratar and out of Marrakech. We have often met people travelling with young children on our travels, but when it came to our own trip we were surprised how nervous we felt about a simple two week break, but flights booked and bags packed we were on our way to Morocco.
An easy flight and we arrived in Gibraltar, we were not sure how quick it would be to cross the border into spain, but a short walk and we were over the border and at the bus station, waiting for a bus to Algeciras.
Ted safe in the backpack, we were on the Ferry to Tangier, It was easy to buy a ticket when we got to the port in Algeciras and luckily a delayed ferry was leaving at a good time for us.
Tangier, beyond the Green tiles of the Grand Mosque, the view from our room, so an early wake up call from the Muezzin.
First things first, mint tea in the Cafe de Paris, once a favourite spot for secret agents and more recently as a setting in The Bourne Ultimatum.
Just around the corner, so a happy Mia.
The tiled floors of the kasbah.
Patterns in the kasbah museum. From floors to walls and doors.
We really enjoyed Tangier, it was easy wandering in the medina and with plenty of cafes and places to escape the heat. We could see why people have so often been drawn here, and you can still feel how it may have been in the days of the Beats.
After a couple of days in Tangier we took the bus to Chefchaouen.
A couple of hours on the bus and although a bit hot a good time for a nap!!
We had read that Chefchaouen was a blue town and it really was!
Blue blue doors of Chefchaouen!
With no traffic at all in the medina this was a perfect place for exploring, and we had a really friendly welcome, while playing on these steps the doors opened with very friendly faces, although Mia was a little nervous of the beckoning hennaed hands she was very happy with the cake she was given!!
Opening her cake, the first of many presents, including lots of sweets, a rose, a postcard and rather randomly a sweaty wrist band!
other medina residents!
Some colour amongst the blue.
not so sure about the animal print ones!
more colours below the blue walls.
trying to get a “good price”!
Chefchaouen, trapped in a fold in the mountains, once very anti-european and autonomous, now a welcoming and laid back town.
At the top! Just in time to hear the Call of Prayer echoing off the mountains.
Back down in the blue alleys.
Quiet streets. Morocco is slow to wake up in the morning, but with Mia as an early riser it was a good time to be out exploring.
too much exploring!
Much to Mia’s delight cats rule the streets.
Waiting for food scraps!
It was really easy going here and a great place to waste days wandering, drinking tea and getting the feel for Morocco. But we had to make our way to Marrakech, so onwards to Fez………
May 28, 2013
Two years have flown by and although we have no real plans yet for a big trip, we have lots of dreams, and with our new chariot trailer have had some good bike rides!
Luckily Mighty Mia seems pleased with her new trailer!!
She is keen to help out too, hopefully we will have her pitching a tent soon!!
For now it is just day trips and hopefully when the summer finally comes a few weekend trips. So we will keep posting on any new adventures!
July 30, 2011
Cycling the last stage of our trip, both a happy and sad feeling, we are excited about seeing old friends and families again and the start of a new adventure, but we know we will miss the freedom of the bikes and our life outdoors.
We had a very relaxing time with my Mum, but it felt good to back on the bikes and the sunshine stayed with us!
A good view from the tent, the Chateau at Falaise.
The cobbled streets of Falaise.
Field after field of sunflowers.
Normandy is known for its wet weather, but on a sunny summers evening it is really idyllic.
The ferry home, and luckily a nice calm day!
England! Shame we didn’t bring the sunshine with us!
Russ and his Dad, who came to meet us and ride the last two days back to Bath with us and check we were on the correct side of the road!
We followed the sustrans cycle route for most of the way, which took us on some lovely back roads and cycle paths, however sometimes the signs would suddenly disappear which lead to bit of back tracking!
Not sure if this is the right way, but it’s very pretty!
Down to the ferry landing to get a little boat across the Humble, we just managed to get the three bikes on the tiny bright pink ferry that came across.
Even so close to home, we still rode through little villages and hamlets we never knew were here.
The back roads!!
Back in Somerset.
Home! Back at Russ’ parents house.
We have had such a great time and we can’t say a big enough thankyou to all the people who have made it such a good experience, all the hospitality and kindness we have been shown. Also the lovely company of the people we have ridden with. Hopefully this blog has shown something of a great journey, thanks to everyone who has followed us and shown interest in our travels.
July 9, 2011
Riding along the Loire has had all the best bits of cycle touring, perfect picnic spots, trails through the vineyards and beautiful chateaux. The weather has stayed sunny for us and it has felt like a really good end to the trip, a chance for us to enjoy the summer and get ready for going home, which is both a very exciting thought and also a little scary!
Wild flowers along the Loire.
Bicycle graffiti along the route, this is a very popular ride for cycle tourers and for day-trippers. With great roads, either quiet secondary or cycle paths, making very pleasant riding.
There is always a chance for some off-road as well….
With some great swimming spots!
The fairytale Chateau at Ussé.
Good when you going down, not so fun to ride up!
Waterlilys in the gardens at Chaumont.
Our only problem along the Loire, after over 10 000 miles this tyre had enough, and made an impressive bang when it burst! Luckily we weren’t flying down the hill!
A side trip from the Loire to La Vienne at Chinon.
We didn’t make to the vineyards of South America this time but we are definitley in wine-growing country here.
One more chateau picture! They are just too picturesque. Chaumont sur Loire.
Inside the Chateau at Chenonceux.
Lovely copper pots in the kitchen…
..and a selection of knives not needed by a vegetarian!
We are now taking a lovely few weeks off in the Cave (Lorely’s mum’s troglodyte home) in Luynes.
Helping out with a few summer time jobs.
Happy painting windows!
June 30, 2011
We have arrived in France, a cyclists dream with miles and miles of cycle paths, campsites everywhere, some with a discount for people arriving on bicycle, and you can’t beat the bread and cheese picnics. After a few rainy days in Spain, crossing the border we have had day after day of sunshine. So we have really enjoyed a good few weeks of very laid back cycling!
Cycling past field after field of sunflowers, even with a head wind it makes you smile.
Our last day in Spain, we arrived in the small town of Hondarribia to find ourselves in the middle of a medieval fair!
Everywhere was in full Medieval style.
Watching the surf in Biarritz.
Cycling the coastal bike route , you can ride the whole coast on trails, which is fantastic. However, we did find ourselves needing days on the roads as well due to the monotony of miles of pine trees!!
Rows and rows of pine trees and piles and piles of wood!
We have really enjoyed the long evenings, after so many months of early sunsets.
Dune du Pilat, near to Arcachon, the highest sand dune in Europe and good fun to run and slide down.
One of the many oyster huts at Arcachon, we stayed near here with a lovely family who stopped by us on the side of the road and invited us to stay for the night and for dinner. The whole trip it has been amazing the kindness people have shown towards us.
Waiting for the ferry over to Cap Ferret.
Some of the bike paths a little bit narrow!
We still enjoy the fresh fruit and veg at the markets and we were lucky to pass a lot of farmers markets in different towns.
Even when we left the cycle tracks the roads were quiet and lovely for riding.
Map reading but a good photo chance! The little villages and towns in France are lovely for cycling, passed beautiful old farmhouses and barns.
The Transporter bridge into Rochefort, built-in 1898 and now used by cyclists and walkers to cross the Charente river. It is a movable bridge with a gondola slung from a huge metal frame, fewer than two dozen have been made and now only twelve of these bridges are still in use.
The harbour entrance of La Rochelle.
La Rochelle, we were lucky to be here on the summer solstice which in France is celebrated with live music in the streets.
Birthday boy, 30 years young!
June 10, 2011
Since our last blog we have had a rather big twist in our trip. Back in Panama, most days I had been feeling not my normal self but put it down to long days riding in the heat, however this continued into Colombia. I eventually found out I was a couple of months pregnant! We rode to Bogota to try to get the necessary check ups. After much deliberation we decided we still wanted to cycle but Latin America was posing too many problems. So a cheapish flight to Madrid was our decision and to cycle home from there. We left Colombia a little sad but very excited about the future and hopefully one day will be back to finish the journey south.
Craving fresh fruit and veggies, we found an amazing vegetarian restaurant for our last few days in Bogota.
Puppet on a wire.
New Jeans and a new city, we are back in Europe!
The Palace in Madrid. Note the lovely blue sky which soon disappeared as we got back on the bikes.
Beautiful magnolia in the park.
As we headed out of Madrid and towards the mountains, the Colombian off road theme continued and we soon found ourselves back on gravel roads.
The scenery was totally different to what we had become used to, we road through rolling farmlands…
Lovely towns and tiny villages all with beautiful churches and houses.
It was funny to the see similar buildings and plazas that we were so used to seeing in all the colonial towns we had travelled through.
Cycling through the poppy fields, trying to out run the storm clouds!
The national park, Canon Del Rio Lobos.
Canon Del Rio Lobos.
We decided to take the mountain bike trail through the national park.
Concentration! Still finding rivers to cross but no worries of crocs in these ones!
Up through the beautiful Canyon.
A very wet day but a very lovely ride, through the mountains.
We thought the riding would be a little bit easier in spain, however with stong headwinds and some high mountain passes we were in for a shock, but the views have been great, lots of wild flowers and food we have been dreaming for months of eating!!
Our downhill descent into the Basque region.
Picture perfect villages.
Mutriku, back on the coast and heading towards France.
The cause of the detour! In Bogota we were lucky to stay with great warmshower host, Angelica and Claudio who helped us so much with the doctors. I was able to go for a scan and have all the necessary blood tests.
May 27, 2011
Back on the road and heading towards Bogota with the traffic not so bad we decided to take the regular route via Villa De Leyva. With lots of mountains and scenery and high altitude farm lands the ride into the capital was enjoyable even with a few wet days thrown in.
The steep streets of San Gil. We had a couple of days here wandering around town working our leg muscles on these hills.
Lots of road side treats for very sweet teeth but good cycling energy.
After some long hills we came across a random Swiss Cafe selling delicious Brocolli and cheese crepes, very much needed.
On the road to Villa De Leyva we cycled through a lovely canyon and with so much rain there were waterfalls pouring on either side of the road. However at 2500 meters high it was a little cold for swimming!
Cycling in the clouds and with the green fields we felt like we were on a day trip in the Brecon Beacons! Although it was wet it was really enjoyable cycling with very little traffic.
Looking for the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow.
Entering Villa De Leyva, a really lovely town in the mountains, we found it hard to leave here. We spent four days just wandering the little cobbled streets and eating great food. We camped in the garden of the hostel Renacer which had a good backpacker feeling.
Couldn’t resist buying some of the local spun wool.
The cobbled square of Villa De Leyva.
A little bit of bike maintenance and cleaning, luckily the sun was out!
Chiquinquira, a small town full of churches and plazas.
A new favourite second breakfast, we discovered that all the little bakerys do fried eggs with bread and a cup of Colombian coffee…ummm!
Not our favorite food option, but good for all those meat lovers.
Zipaquira, the main attraction here is the salt cathedral, an old salt mine transformed. Its a fasinating place to visit.
Walls of salt, we didn’t lick them though!
Salty tree of life.
Salt cathedral, Zipaquira.
Back out into the daylight, the main plaza Zipaquira.
Cycling into the capital.
La Candaleria, the historic old part of the city, full of cafes, restaurants and Museums.
It’s better by bike.
Botero’s Mona Lisa, he manages to make everything look fat. A great collection of his work in one of the many museums and galleries in the city.
Street art, Bogota
Colonial houses complete with colonial locks.
At first we were not sure about the city, it felt very big and dirty. However once we scratched the surface, walked the cobbled streets and found good veggie food, we discovered a great city that really grew on us.
May 12, 2011
We left the wetlands and headed for the foothills of the Andes, Siska, Michiel and Joost turned off onto a different route, so we said our goodbyes but hopefully will meet them again in a few weeks. There was no option to avoid the hills whichever way you went you would soon be going up! However it felt nice to be climbing higher and the temperature drop making camping much more pleasant.
The first hills, everything was so green it was as if everything was covered in a layer of moss. There as been a lot of rainfall in this area aswell.
Although the views were good, the ride was made hard by the constant stream of trucks. Due to landslides a lot of the other roads in the area had been closed so all the traffic was channeled into one road. A policeman told us where there would normally be a hundred trucks there was now three hundred.
After the town of Bucaramanga, the thought of the traffic and with encouragement from Cass we decided to take the back roads to San Gil.
Our first stop was the little town of Giron, a picture perfect town with all whitewashed buildings, and a great bakery for morning snacks.
The beginning was a mixture of paved and gravel roads but the lack of traffic was lovely.
Tobacco leaves drying by the side of the road. We cycled passed orange, pineapple and tobacco farms on our way through the valley.
Soon the fate of our day came into view as the road switchbacks up the other side of the valley.
A well parked car provided a shady rest spot on a 40c day.
Rest stop over, on up the hill!
As we climbed higher the views were really spectacular.
We often see road side graves but this is the most impressive one so far.
The town of Zapatoca, we had planned to stay here, however with our long breaks to stay out of the sun we had to camp 10km before the town but it was a good stop in the morning for breakfast. We were a great fascination for the town and one man even weighed our bikes in his shop to see how much we carried, he then weighed all of us!! It was interesting to find out how much we carry and were all around the 46kg.
We had a long gravel descent and soon came across the idyllic village of La Fuente. we stopped for drinks but soon pushed on as we knew we had more hill climbing in the heat to do.
Another big hill and the next day we arrived in the even more picture perfect town of Barichara.
Beautiful painted houses and cobbled streets.
In the bakery we met Carlos, a local artist and mountain biker, he had heard we were coming from the guys in the bike shop in Bucaramanga and invited us to stay. His house was a beautiful a 12 year project of his. He was not staying as he had another house in a neighbouring town, but gave us the keys and said to make ourselves at home, amazing hospitality.
We have loads of photos of little doors and windows, each one seemed to have its own charm. I liked this plan and simple one!
It was a longer tougher rider this way, but really worth it for the great views, good camping spots and amazing towns and villages.
For more pictures and a really good blog check out Cass’ http://www.whileoutriding.com